720World

Little Trucks, Big World

This project has been bumped back for years. Finally set aside the time and knocked it out. You can buy mounts and have a Franken pan made that allows this motor to drop in. After that the fun begins because nothing else lines up. Power steering is a mix from other vehicles and the cooling system looks like something from Dr. Suess. The wiring is endless fun, but I have everthing but the tach working. The drive? All smiles, with thirty ones it will never be a speed demon but it drives like a modern vehicle with fuel injection smoothing things out and instant starting. I am a happy man!

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I don't care for the instant start on my brother's Hardbody. It was clattering till pressure got up. Told him to add some Lucas. Cured clatter.

The E has 'hydraulic lifters', well hydraulic cushioning of the rocker arms would be closer. Dirt or build up can block or limit the oil under pressure getting to them causing them to tic on start or constantly. Next time it's down a quart top off with ATF and drive for a few days. ATF is highly detergent and will loosen the gum deposits, then change the oil.... and filter. Probably wouldn't hurt to switch to 15W40 Rotella T or Chevron Delo 400. Both are 'light' diesel oils with high levels of ZDDT in their formula. Diesel oils have higher detergent levels than gas engine oils too. These are OLD engines are intended for higher ZDDP levels than are available in today's over the counter oils. ZDDP is slowly being phased out as it fucks up today's catalytic converters and new engines are all roller rocker and don't need it. 

Might I add also that the tensioners tend to be too loose on startup, but a shim over the tensioner piston works wonders.
I have the fuel pump in the engine bay that is kind of loud but as far as clatter I don't notice it. The ka really makes the truck more pleasant to drive. The effort sucked but I am happy with it.
You will find the fuel pump works better mounted on the frame as low as you can get near the tank. They don't like to suck, but once they have a good siphon, they push fuel very well. Some of the noise is likely from the pump being above or near the upper level of the tank.
Well although I can drive it there are still some things that need to be worked out for the long run. The original fuel pump is in place and acting like a lift pump on a diesel that supplies the injection pump. So the high pressure pump should be getting 3 pounds feed pressure so I don't think that is the noise factor. Most fuel pumps are mounted in the tanks nowadays I think to reduce the noise.
Well, they are in tank both to reduce noise and keep the pump cooler. The fuel helps transfer the heat away from the pump. In my experience, the frame mounted high pressure pumps tend to act up worst with radiant heat coming up from the asphalt and reducing the amount of heat the pump can transfer out to the air. The fuel in the tank will tend to shield against heat soaking the pump from the road. Long story, pump in tank usually works best IF for EFI. A hard body king cab 4x4 tank will fit very closely into the same place as a 720 king cab tank, the sender works the same and it is a pump in tank design. I used one in mine and haven't had a pump failure in 7 years.
Patrick is the tank larger? And some folks have a different approach to the work easy, the ka swap was not what I would call easy. Also all I have left is to get the tach working. I am connecting the blue tach wire to the coil ground but no worky.

The hardbody tank is about the same size.  I think its 15.8 gallons.  As for the tach, take the old tach lead of the truck from the 2.2K ohm resistor and run it to the same wire from the power transistor that triggers the ground side of the coil.

Congratulations. I'm happy you got it in and running. Mine ran well enough, but I had to "dare to be different" so out it went. Definitely sure the effort sucked, but overall I hope you do like it.
Got the tach figured out. All is well and running smooth. I will keep a lookout for a hardbody tank and pump.

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