Little Trucks, Big World

Bought an '83 King Cab awhile back, gas and temp gauges inop. Wiring schematic for my '85 shows they share the regulator. Any wisdom here before I pull cluster? I grounded temp wire already.

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Corey can you move this to general forum?

Done deal!

Got'em working. The connector plugs inside the cluster had both lost  connection to the gauges. Regulator was OK.

Glad you got it working!  Corroded or just lose?

Thanx! No visible corrosion, I unplugged, plugged back in, restored connection. Sure glad it was that easy. Don't usually work like that for me. Most times it'd really weird stuff.

If your turn signals work then it's not the fuse as they share it.

The volt regulator is built into the gauge. Upper (slightly left) you can see the points with white wrapped wire coiled around it. Get a thin strip of very fine emery cloth and fold so both sides are out. Open points and place cloth between points. Let close on emery cloth. Pull cloth sideways out from between the two contacts to polish them. Do several times.

Not sure if this works both gauges or there is a set for each gauge.

The reason for the volt regulator??? Well there is a voltage difference between engine off and running. 12.6 key on but engine not and 14.6 when charging. Not to mention idling with heater, high beams, wipers and signals working at the same time. The gauges would give different readings. The cure is a regulator set to a steady 8 volts. Gauges read the same all the time regardless of battery voltage..

Just got around to pulling cluster. The red capacitor is open. It's a .22 K/MFD, 50/100 V.

Just ordered https://www.ebay.com/itm/KEMET-CAPACITOR-22uF-50V-X7R-RADIAL-MOLDED...

Anybody need one in future let me know.

All that makes perfect sense, but the regulator looks like an on-or-off switch, points in contact or not. How does this provide a constant voltage? Thanks!

It isn't exactly a constant voltage but a square wave of on and off. The on and off times might even be of different lengths and very short duration but the average voltage is about 8. The white wire is wrapped around a bi metallic strip. As the wire heats up the metal strip begins to bend and the points open. It cools and closes, heats up and opens, back and forth. You can see a small adjuster to set the opening position and there is a capacitor to reduce arcing. 

Thanks!  I noticed that all of that is on the fuel gauge bracket.  Is there a source for a replacement fuel gauge?

Not that I know of. Might search dash cluster repair.

Wrecking yard. Or Nissan but either doubtful they have one and if they do it's at least $100. The gauge seldom goes bad and if it's the V/R, changing the gauge won't fix it. 


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