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84 KC 4x4. Fuel pump stopped delivering. But it works fine if you bypass the factory circuit with a direct connection to battery. Mechanic wants to just hardwire it. Sounds kludgey to me. I know there is some form of regulator upstream of the pump's electric circuit. How important is it and are replacements available? TNX!

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Probably the fuel pump relay. Not sure where it is located on the 84 but when you find it just "barrow" one from your headlight, ac circuit, whatever is handy and see if that is your problem.
Does anyone know where fuel pump relay is located on a carburetor model? My shop manual only shows one in the EECS module of the fuel injection model.

Hi Rickygee,to get to your fuel pump relay,under your glove box is your change tray,that's what I call it,remove the screw on each end and remove tray,to the right is the relay with 2 phillip head screw's holding it on and it's a bitch getting the screws out.Here's what it look's like,about 53 bucks from Autozone,but Rock Auto may have them cheaper,but Autozone gives you a lifetime warranty and if it doesn't fix your problem,you can take back for a refund.Just looked on Ebay for prices and they are higher.Check this out,a good while ago,I was having fuel issues,and never thought it was the fuel pump,got my meter out,had wife turn key and getting no reading,so my dumb ass thought it was the fuel pump relay,went to Autozone bought a new one,it was 50 bucks then,installed it and nothing,so,I ordered a fuel pump,a Beck- Arnley oem type like I thought I replaced not long ago,went looked at receipts and 10 years have passed,we'll time flies,I did take relay back and got a refund,still using the original one.So sometimes things will throw you off,it did me.

This is great info! Thanks!!
That picture is the whole recepticle. I haven't ever touched mine I could be wrong but most relays just unplug. There will be a part number and most manufacturers use a common supplier such as Bosch or now the Chinese knock offs. Pull the relay clean the contacts and you may be fine.

Not on these Channing,you have to remove the 2 screws holding it ,the picture you see with bracket is the way it is made.When you buy a new one,that's what it look's like,riveted into the bracket.Everyone you see for sell will have that bracket attached to it,goes with the part.

Just picked up mine from Auto zone. Looks like the picture. Now, I just hope this is the fix! Thanks all.

The relay needs a charging alternator and the oil pressure warning lamp off. These two tell the relay if the engine is running or not. Important in an accident. You don't want the fuel pump running if there is a fire.

I keep a spare relay in the truck. I relocated mine a bit so's I can see it under glove box. If it sets awhile it sticks which a few friendly raps will unstick. If you turn key just a shade past IGN but before START, you can hear the module activate pump.

No regulator for pressure after the pump. The pump will be self regulated to make about 3.5-4 PSI.

The relay is only there to protect you in the event of an accident involving a fire. Last thing you need is to be trapped in a burning vehicle and you can hear the fuel pump, pumping away. Without the alternator charging the relay times out and shuts off the pump.

 

I think some Weber 720 owners use a pressure regulator is because they aren't smart enough to figure out that they need a idle cut off solenoid,which the idle will be low and go up and down on the rpm's.I tried using my Weber without the idle cut off,and that's what it did plus it dieseled.To see if your idle cut off solenoid is working right,disconnect wire to it and engine will die,I had to replace one not long ago,engine started idleing rough,and desieled,when I disconnected wire,engine kept running,replaced idle cut off solenoid and it idles perfect.I've been using a Weber for about 19 years now.The filter doesn't get dirty.

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