My truck has started smoking badly when I start it up - it cleans up fine in about a half mile, no smoke even when I go down hill for miles - but whenever it sits for more than a coulpe of hours, it's smokey all over again. So much so that I'm afraid of getting ticketed and have parked it.
I changed the valve-stem seals (no improvement) and there seems to be no sign of a head gasket leak.
I've had engines with tired piston rings and bad valve guides - this is not at all like what I've experienced. It's a mystery to me, any advice is most welcome.
valve guide hogged out?
maybe oil change may help.
How bad is your crankcase pressure?
White smoke, blue smoke, stick or automatic?
Thanks for your interest guys,
I'm going to check the guides this weekend, the mechanic I use said this could be an issue.
My oil is recently changed - it's faily clean, don't think the crankcase pressure is excessive, but it's one more thing to check. When I had the cylinders presserized to take the valve springs off, they all seemed to hold air about the same, I'm gonna do a real compression test and know for sure.
About the smoke, it's blue - I had the head gasket fail when the truck was only a couple of years old and what came out of the exhuast pipe was mostly white, steamy clouds..... I have a 5 speed.
My daughter says it's time to "part it out" Dad :(
My piston rings went bad ,oil got on 2 spark plugs before I could make it to work,12 miles,decided to get a remanufactured engine from Jasper engines,had a pro Jasper installer put it in 3 year-100,000 warranty,if something goes wrong in the 3 years,they will send a new reman to replace,can't beat that,had it going on 5 years and it still runs perfect,also put a new Weber on it too,now I'm still in heaven,sometimes it's best to get a reman. than keep pouring money into it .Haven't put a dime in it since.The smoke was blue too.If you plan on keeping it and have the money,get rid of that engine and get a reman. one.
This too, is an option - I've rebuilt so many parts of this truck, it would be a shame to give up on it now.
I would like to get it to last through the winter though - I really rely on the 4wd to get around when the snow piles up.
I'll check out the Jasper site, thanks.
I had a spare 2.2 engine saved-up for the time when my existing one tuckered-out.
Was going to rebuild it myself but when I got the head off saw that water had got into one of cylinders.
So to the machine shop it went, re-bored 40 over, with almost everything that moves replaced.
The replacement motor was was also out of an '82 but it was a 2wd - the shop guy said he doubted that there was any difference in a 2wd from a 4wd.
So, it's been a year later, the motor has been great, a new lease on life for my baby!
There is a little less power now, I can't 'lug' this motor down quite like the other, hardly noticeable, but I pull a little (old and heavy) teardrop trailer in the summer, when I go camping, it's then that I notice a small difference of power-loss, especially on hills that I used to get over in higher gear, even when the original motor was getting tired.
The only guess I have here it that I had the head rebuilt twice on the original engine and in both cases, the shops 'planed' or took off material on the head-surface to get the warped areas out.
I'm thinking that the compression ratio may have been upped, not greatly but enough to make a difference.
It's time to have a few things done back at the shop and the guy says that he'll check the timing and some other things when I bring it in....
Any suggestions on what my problem may be are very welcome.
1/ Check and set the valve lash.
2/ Timing off. Check 3/ first though
3/ First fuse on left blown and now running only on the intake side plugs. Check both coils firing.
4/ Throttle not adjusted and opening all the way when floored.
5/ Catalytic converter plugged or fallen apart inside blocking flow.
I know the valve-lash can use adjustment, when the mechanic re-assembled the engine - he stated that if I wanted more advancement on the timing he would have to re-align the oil pump, because the distributor was all the way advanced (though the timing was correct) - something to be done when I brought it back.
The timing is most likely the culprit here, because the other motor liked to be advanced to the point that it would 'rattle' if I pushed hard, (especially in hot weather) it was where the most power was and never seemed to hurt anything.
Plugs are all firing (didn't know there was a fused system here) the catalytic somehow got misplaced somewhere in the past.....so flow is good and as far as the throttle goes most of the usable power is in the first half of the pedal, more happens with more pedal, but if I start to lose it on a hill, flooring it is futile - generally, I only floor it to merge or pass and it goes fine...
Thanks for your impute, I'll definitely get on the valve-lash and timing before I take the trailer out again.