Hi Ya'll,I was coming home today from getting a haircut,noticed my engine kind of not driving right and a noise coming from under the glove box.So I removed the change tray and started it up and the ignition relay was making the noise,we'll awhile back I bought one cause I was having some issues and thought that was it but it was my fusible link,it had a bad wire that goes to the alternator.I plugged the ignition relay in and it stopped making the noise and drives great again,the relay clipes on the fuel pump relay holder. A new one from Parts for Nissan are 42 with shipping,I just ordered a new one to have on hand.Part number is 25230-C9907.Seen one from Geek parts for 30 with shipping but rather go with Nissan.
Parts for Nissan has super fast shipping.Ordered the ignition relay Monday and got the part today which is Thursday.I have been using them for a while now.They are also on facebook.So if you need a Nissan part and it is still in stock,go with them.They are out of Arizona.
There's only an auto choke heater relay and an inhibit relay for automatics under the glove box below the fuel pump relay.
Hi Mike,on my 85 5-speed 2.4 engine,I have a fusible link that has 5 wires coming from the positive battery terminal that is oem,I have bought a few since I had my truck for 24 years. I just ordered a new one,the piece that that the wires feed into broke apart long time ago,so I being using wire connectors to connect them,the alternator white wire connects to the black wire which is more thicker than the other 4 wires.I guess the connector I am using is not the right thickness.It keeps blowing at the connector,today I cut the connector off and added a new one but the same type and the ignition relay stopped buzzing and my battery gauge went back up to 14.5 volts and my oil pressure gauge went back up.I've been cutting that fitting out every so often.My ignition relay is mounted on my fuel pump relay holder.My ignition relay is good just the fusible link to the alternator is causing this.Some Nissan sites says the fusible link is discontinued,so I keep looking and a Nissan parts dealer in Washington looked up the part number and said his Nissan Warehouse in California has them so I ordered a new one.I will have to use a bigger connector,I am using the blue one,will step up to the yellow one which is thicker like the alternator wire.
Here's my fusible link project I did today,took the terminal out of the old one and installed in the new one and used yellow connectors from Autozone,stripped the wire extra long then doubled it up so it would be tight in the connectors,then see the picture afterwards,it idles great.I also bought a extra fusible link cause one day Nissan will run out and will have to rig it.Check out my mileage on the speedometer.
Does anyone know why my Auto choke relay is humming,vibrating.Bought a new one and it still does it,causing my engine to idle high.I just disconnected it.
If you disconnect it the choke will not heat up enough to turn it off completely. Coke part on will engage the fast idle cam and cause a high idle.
The choke heater relay needs a charging alternator so have the alternator checked out. It may be failing and on it's way out.
A good fix is to connect the choke heater wire (Blue) to the idle cut solenoid (Red) wire right beside it. It supplies 12 volts and switches off with the ignition. This will not fix the alternator.
Thanks datzenmike,kinda thought it may be the alternator.I am going to have it tested,I have a warranty on it so it should not cost anything.I will post back here when I get it fixed.
The relay has battery on one side and alternator charge on the other. If the alternator can't keep up properly, current flows from battery to alternator and the relay clicks on... only to cick off and on off and so on. The alternator may test good it's not completely failed.
The intent is to only have choke heater with the engine running. Here's why... Say it's 10 below and you go out fire up the 720 and go back in to finish your coffee while it warms up. Unknown to you it stalls but the choke heater fully warms the choke and turns it off. You come out but without the choke you can't get the cold engine started.
By having a way to tell when the engine stops (no charging alternator) the choke stays cold and ready for a re-start.
Hi Mike,before I posted the post on Tuesday,I took my 720 to Autozone since I bought the alternator from them and have a warranty,they tested the battery and alternator and he said they passed,then I drove to Walmart since I bought the battery from them and they said it passed but the print out readout stated it was getting 602 cca.and the battery is a 700 cca.Today I drove to Advance Auto parts and he did a complete test,with load,and without load and checked the starter,alternator and battery.He gave me a complete print out on all three,here are the results.The starter test said cranking normal,11.18V.The alternator test said no load 14.49V and the loaded is 14.53V.Which said charging system output test normal.Here is the battery test.Voltage 12.57V,Measured 597 CCA,rated 700 CCA.GOOD-RECHARGE.Battery meets or exceeds Industry Specifications.But is low on charge.So what does this mean,I have a warranty on the battery to get a free one from Walmart but when I had it tested there,they said good,just low on CCA.My Alternator is testing good so I can't get a free one from Autozone.So I am stuck.Tomorrow is Friday the 13th,yikes.So Mike,what does this sound like to you,the relay is clicking and it idles high,sometimes I can push the gas pedal to make the idle go down and most times it doesn't.I am fixing to clean the negative cable leaving the battery to the tray and the cable leaving the tray to the.chassis.Just to eliminate that,what does recharge the battery mean,thought the alternator does that.I have the money to buy what I need but what do I need.
Here's a update on my project.After my last post,I went outside,removed my battery from Battery tray,Got a 7/16 socket and ratchet with long extension and removed the negative battery cable and other cable and the black wire with the o- ring that bolts into the side of battery tray. Got a piece of 110 grit sand paper and sanded the the cable ends and o-ring end and the place where the bolt goes into plus the bolts washer,then I disconnected the other end of cable that bolts into the power steering bracket and sanded the cable end and the place it bolts into and the bolts washer and wiped it all down and reinstalled.Started it up and no choke relay noise and idle was good.Then this morning,drove to work and back and it did great,idled normal and no choke relay noise.I go to work again in the morning and hopefully my problem is solved,but you never know about our 720's.Will post more if the problem is still here,hope not,got lots of yard work to do...
YES, it's essential that the body be thoroughly grounded. The ground is normally to the intake but engine and drive train are rubber insulated for vibration and won't connect well. That bolt under the battery try is a good point to ground the body.