Little Trucks, Big World

I bought a 32/36 Weber kit for my 1984 4x4 Z-24, and I am in the middle of installing it, but I have a continuing issue.
I honestly don't know where the float bowl ventilation hose is...I have pulled all theses hoses off and taken off the AB valve and the metal line that went under the intake manifold and came up in between the manifold and the valve cover with a rubber line on the end of it.

I have looked at tons of pictures on line in here and by google searching but to no avail, nothing at AutoZone.com either and nothing in my Haynes manual.

I was supposed to plug the line when I was removing everything and now I am supposed to hook it back up, but I don't even know what the heck it is or what it looks like~!!

I could really use some up close shots showing where the lines we actually need are coming from and going too as the instructions included are not the best.

I did tag the vacuum lines that they recommended as well as the fuel inlet and return, but I just could not find any pictures that showed me which line exactly was the float bowl breather hose, in fact the Haynes manual doesn't show much of anything really because they made a general disclaimer that there are too many different styles to aptly show a teardown of each unit.

Please help!!

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If you are not using your EGR.....cap the back pipe. I removed the pipes from the EM (with lots of heat) and cut the pipe.....left about 1/2 inch. Bent that over and brazed.
For the manifold do as sealick mentions or get a metric pipe plug and screw into manifold to block it. I would remove the EGR end and shorten to an inch and fill with JB weld to permanently seal it so there is no chance of the valve leaking air into the intake. Or use a metric pipe plug.

If you can get the pipe threaded ends out of the manifolds, take them with you to a hardware store. (maybe a plumbing store?) Its way easier to find plugs if you have them with you.
The rear line from the exhaust to the EGR is not needed unless you have smog testing. Pull 'n plug it. The pipe thread is metric I believe. You may be able to just cut the pipe, flatten and roll the end.
If you need to pass a smog test you will need it on.
i removed all the egr and emissions components and built a block off plate where it connects to the intake.
I appreciate the help guys, I'll have to work on getting that tube off of the EGR though, it's in a tight spot.

After checking every place in town and not finding a plug that is 23 mm with a fine thread I decided to just drill the hole bigger and then tap it for a plug that I can get more readily.
Luckily I came up with a better solution and tapped the inner hole with a 5/8"- 18 tap and then went to the local nut and bolt store and luckily he had just what I needed, an allen head bolt of that size and thread that was an 1 1/2" long and threaded the whole length.
This was just long enough that the bottom could thread in far enough to get alot of grip on the threads but not so much that it would block exhaust flow at all and the head was just the right size that it sealed up against the outside of the plug hole so it acts as a double seal, put on a little threadlock and she's good to go!

Now I'll just take it up to Greensboro to have HPC hit it with their "Sterling" (looks like chrome) coating that is good for 1300 deg. and will decrease the running temperature as well by about 50 deg. and look far better than what it does right now...going to have them do the valve cover at the same time.

Now the bad part. When I removed the valve cover the gasket lifted up and the rubber plug seal that fills in the gap on the head to the valve cover, came out of position and fell down into the timing chain, when I even attempted any kind of rescue it fell all the way down to the bottom and I can no longer see it.

What will this mean? Is it a logical danger to the engine or will it just sit down there and do nothing? I have no interest in completely tearing down the engine to get that out of there that's for sure.

Let me know what you think please.

I hate to be somewhat negative about the whole dropping the cam plug down into the motor but if it gets stuck on the oil pick up it can starve the engine of oil. i doubt it will do damage on its way there, but if it gets chopped into little pieces well then you can imagine they will get stuck everywhere. good for you tho, the oil pan is actually easy to take off while in the truck, if its 4x4 just remove the front diff and you will be able to get the pan out (i did oil pan gasket at the same time that i did the head rebuild.) the timing cover is also super easy to get off, the only hard part is getting the oil pump / distributor shaft lined up right on reassembly.

I will look for better pictures with the front cover off. . .but its easy to do :)
I checked the specific gravity of rubber (which this probably isn't) plus neoprene, viton, silicone and nitrile and they are heavier than water. Because oil floats on water the 'rubber' cam plug is even less likely to float. I've pulled pans with chain guides and RTV all over the bottom.

Also this thread is over a year old.
didnt realize it was so old :)
i just installed this kit on my 85 720 4x4 last week and the brass nipple is in the wrong spot itgoes below the carb where you took off the anti back fire valve
Actually, I called Weber Carbs Direct where I bought it from to ask them about the nipple and the guy said he had "no idea what it was there for and it had no relevance...just remove it"...so I did, and it runs great.

I put mine in the same place.  Thought the valve I removed was the anti back fire valve.  Ha. 





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