Little Trucks, Big World

Have been looking for another air cleaner for my Weber.....sacrificed the one I had for the EFI on another truck.
Would of cost 40 bucks plus taxes and shipping to replace it.....Not
Anywho....decided to see if I could make the stock 720 air cleaner fit the 32/36.
Looks like a go......just a few more adjustments to make it bolt to the valve cover.
Don't think I'll need the center 'nut'....have those clips to hold the top of the air cleaner on.
Zip cut the center out. Cut a pot lid to fit. Shall rivet that to the bottom and 'aug' hole for Weber
Shall post the remaining 'tasks' ASAP

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Cut a new base for the air cleaner....was a little flimsy.
Assembly fits rather
Just have to mount the Weber and hook 'everything' up

Wow....deja vu.

I was just working on this same thing today! Except I used a pizza pan for my new base since it was thicker and steel.
I already put the base on and sealed it but will have to drill a couple unexpected holes to mount some of the vacuum ports and stuff from the old pan.
The hard part for me right now is trying to figure out what the heck to hook up to allow my exhaust to be cleaned up a bit but still run right "and" look correct for inspections.

I imagine that is why you are hooking your pan back up as well? If you have any idea what vacuum lines we need and where they should go I'd appreciate it.
Some go to the air cleaner and some go to the EGR with a "T" to the old carb. which obviously we don't need.

So I guess I can just run a "T" between the Distributor vacuum on the Weber and also go to the Thermal Vacuum Valve and the middle port of the TVV to the EGR and VVT, but nothing to the carb on that line.

Loads of fun....if North Carolina didn't make me go through this crap I wouldn't.
Especially since i have to get back into the fuel line and run the return line that I originally didn't think we needed...love playing with gasoline.
Actually I'm eliminating all my emissions....everything.
Might keep the ATC
Didn't want to pay 50 bucks plus for a new Weber air cleaner.....:)
Anywho......everything (most) should be able to be hooked back up....other than your BCDD (if you have one) which is connected to a vacuum switch on the pass inner fender.
I think I'm going to hook up the E.A.I. tubes from the EM.....but plug them.
Only used to reduce emissions.
Probably going to run the ATC (vacuum motor at the end of air cleaner)......?
Apparently the engine will run leaner when cold.
Obviously I will have to attach a couple of vacuum hoses and the temp sensor in the ('new') air cleaner.
Mike........what you think?????
Oh....if anyone is having problems with their engine now.....cold weather and all.
Check your ATC
Problems are........
Engine stall
Increase in fuel consumption
Lack of power
Come to think of it......I think that's what wrong with another truck I have.....:)
I marked the spot for my ATC sensor and the other air line going under the air cleaner and drilled them out tonight, just have to find a way to fasten them on!

The spring clamp plate that goes on the bottom of the air cleaner to hold the ATC in place broke on one side from being rusty and weak, so now it won't hold tightly and I am going to stop by the parts store and hopefully find push on clips to use instead.

The air line I'm less certain about, thought about drilling two holes (one on each side of the inlet) to fasten it down with some small screws and a bead of silicone around it's edge, I don't think silicone alone, J.B. Weld or Liquid Metal will get much adhesion and most likely would break loose quickly.

I'm not going to put the large inlet for the hose coming from the AB valve to the air cleaner in since the Weber already has an anti-backfire valve already and I am just going to keep it's hole plugged in the intake manifold.
Which air line?
Weber has an AB valve.....?
I have those clips.....but they are a bitch to get off without screwing them up.
Mike....what's your opinion on running the ATC with the Weber?
Make it functional ....if in a cold locale....disable in summer.????
Or just 'screw' it.....
Damn I just checked my page and must apologize to all questions I didn't answer... I simply don't check that page often.

The ATC system is of most use (to me) to prevent carb icing. Carb icing is mostly a problem in damp areas around or just above freezing temperatures. Freezing rain or cold foggy conditions are worst. Carb icing is characterized by the engine seeming to lack power and you push the peddle further and further but the truck keeps slowing. It will however often idle just fine.

When gas mixes and vaporizes in air it absorbs heat to do so. Therefore the gas air mixture inside the carb will be colder than just the air that enters the carb. This will make the carb colder too especially the venturi. Now imagine extremely high humidity air entering the carb just at or above freezing and flowing through a -28degree (below freezing) venturi. Moisture in the air will form a layer of frost and build slowly plugging the venturi. Smaller venturi... less gas drawn in... runs lean. Venturi plugged ...no vacuum... no gas ... it stalls.

I find out here at sea level that freezing rain is a perfect mix of cold and dampness to cause carb icing. And the winters here are mostly rain and cold whereas Calgary on the other hand is very cold but much drier so less likely.

The ATC just uses the fast warming exhaust manifold to warm the intake air far enough above freezing point that frost won't form. The vacuum operated valve in the air filter snorkel is regulated by a temp sensor to keep the air at around 60F? or near enough.

Of secondary importance (to me) is that the warmer air mixes and burns better and helps the motor warm up faster with less emissions. The choke comes off sooner. blah, blah, blah.
Thanks for the reply....
I wasn't thinking about the function of the ATC after the engine is warmed up.
But.....if the engine is at normal operating temp the ATC flap is open to fresh air only.
If I came apon some colder air driving down the road....the sensor 'reads' this and will pivot the flap and draw in warm air from the EM.
I see now.
I'm assuming it does...going on what someone else had said previously.
How else does it keep from backfiring? I know when my AB Valve went bad my truck immediately went to backfiring and would hardly run at all, so how would this do it without one on the same vehicle?

I'm definitely not afraid to learn something new so if someone knows better on that subject fill me in!

The air line I was referring to is for the TCS and EGR...whether or not I actually use that line I don't know yet, it may just get plugged like the others to make it "look" right.
Pretty sure the Weber has no AB
"......The air line I was referring to is for the TCS and EGR.....".....plug em.
Actually that's a VVT or BBT valve.....I think.
The only thing the Weber needs to function is vacuum advance from the dis and 12v to the choke
You need about 2.5lb fuel pressure from the pump....thus a fuel regulator.
Will run okay without.
You could also install a anti-dieseling solenoid for shut off.
Don't need it if the engine is properly tuned
Although.... that solenoid might work with the stock IC (Idle Cut/deceleration) circuit.....?


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