Little Trucks, Big World

throttle bogs down and fuel sending unit....help!

I have a Weber 32/36 and after over a year of being off the truck for a full restoration job, I have a hesitation in throttle response upon first application of fuel.     The engine will literally "bog" down, but not stall, and then jump to life with a nice full rev of the engine.     It does not miss or anything like that, this is a simple falling off and then an immediate pick-up of engine rpm's.

The main problem is drivability of course since every time you want to step on the gas it flop sweats. If you place a heavy enough throttle application down sometimes you can push past it with only a small drop before taking off but then at times it will just fall flat and snap to life with a jerk of your head and a buck of the truck in response...not smooth at all for road use.

I was not sure if the Weber was getting the proper amount of fuel since my regulator was set for my old fuel pump that frankly..stunk.   I purchased a new OEM one for my rebuild (and a new fuel tank, lines, filters, etc.) and it still hesitated so I ran the fuel line straight from the fuel pump right to the carb (with the potential for too high of a fuel load) but it still hesitated just the same.

Is it possible that the other parts of the carb need to be taken apart and cleaned after being "down" for so long (i.e. needle valves, jets, etc.), would they possibly cause the issue?

Part 2:

The previously mentioned new fuel tank was installed and I used the original fuel sending unit because it worked fine previously, sadly now that i have it all installed and fuel in the tank the gauge is not working.

I checked the wires and cleaned the harness contact points but still nothing.   I used the ohm meter and checked the switch and it showed 93 ohms which would be "empty" on the gauge, which is exactly what the gauge is showing, problem is...it has about a half tank or so of fuel right now so it should register much lower at about maybe 35-38ish.

Upon testing the main wiring coming back to the switch the voltage was all over the place reading 2 volts one second and 11.59 the next, I couldn't make much of that really.

I am REALLY not looking forward to taking this tank back out and removing the sending unit now that it has a bunch of fuel in it to replace the sending unit.

If you have any ideas or better yet "experience" with these two items I would love to hear them.

Thanks guys!

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Hope that works for you,yeah 300 bucks is a lot,There is one part you may need when rebuilding that doesn't come with the kit,it's the Power Valve Diaphragm DG and DF Series Carburetors  ,cost 9.95,http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/product-p/57804.097.htm

This is about the dryer that you said you were going to sell me for just shipping mazspd6.Kinda don't like bull shiters.

Umm, Wtf?

It took me a while to even locate what you were talking about on that one.

I remembered bringing it up but never got any e-mail notification or anything so i forgot about it.

Next time someone offers to give you something for free that they bought with their own money you may want to back it down a notch and just inquire about it nicely.

I still have it.
Yeah.... Don't call out someone when it's free and nobody has a clue wtf is going on.... Keep it on private messaging. On the other hand there only a few people I will deal with on this site because I have been buttfucked pretty bad here. I have sent parts to people to help them get their vehicles back on the road in good faith they will square up with me later, only to never see them on the site ever again. It's a nissan/datsun owner thing, 510 owners being the worst.
Thanks Steve g.

However i do stand behind my word when it's given. Let me know if this is the style you needed (pics. Included)
Love how we can't do multiple pics.
Ok, back on track with this post.

I disassembled and cleaned the carb. and was in the process of reassembly and had a question for any of you that have recently rebuilt a 32/36.

In my rebuild kit (from Weber carbs direct) they gave me two metal (stainless?) washers instead of copper and i have to assume they go on the power needle valve in the base of the carb instead of a copper one since the only copper ones I received were small ones for the accelerator pump jet.

The other one i used on the cutoff solenoid because it fit and the rubber o-ring was shot, does it have to be isolated from the base with an o-ring or is it ok to use the metal washer instead since they did not give me an o-ring to fit but the metal one does?

Pic. of the o-ring below.

Finally was able to get a hold of Weber Carbs. direct and the service tech. told me that they did indeed change the material from copper to aluminum for the power valve washer.

The idle cut-off solenoid is still supposed to have a rubber o-ring but they do not include it in the kit, since i bought the rebuild kit off of them they are sending me the replacement o-ring for free.

Now it has me wondering where that other aluminum washer is supposed to go?!

Figured i would update my project.

I got finished with the carburetor rebuild and hooked it up, ran real rough for the first couple minutes until i could reset all the adjustments and then it smoothed out nicely.

Took it for a drive and it ran terrific, pulled smooth and strong, no stutter at all....it's pretty close to being back on the road now, just need to make a few more test runs with it close to home to make sure everything is running correctly.

I drove the truck for over a hundred miles since the head gasket and valve job so I retorqued the head bolts and double checked the valve lash and everything looks real good and overall it drives well but one thing needs some work yet.

When I drive about 10 or so minutes and stop somewhere then try to restart it after it has sat for about 10 minutes it has a hard time trying to turn over like their is a lot of pressure in the cylinder or something.

First time you start it while cold it will start right up, no issue at all, but when it gets warmed up and you stop is when it will do it.    The battery is new so it is not that, and honestly it has always had this issue, even before the rebuild.

You turn the key and get a little movement and it just stops in mid-rotation like it is having a hard time turning the engine over and i usually turn it off then back on a couple times and then it will finally catch, then runs smooth afterward.

Any idea what would cause this issue?

Currently I have most of the vacuum assisted emissions operations plugged to run the Weber carburetor but I do use the vacuum assist on the brakes of course and for the distributor operation and thermal valve...stuff like that.

Same starter? Sometimes as the get weak and it gets worse when hot.

radical advanced timing or bad starter/starter connections..





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