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Little Trucks, Big World

is it possible to replace the seals without removing the head?
if so, anyone knows the tricks and the do's and donts?
thats my project for next week and i prefer feedback prior to doing it.

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Easy: valve cover off, remove rockers, turn motor so that the cylinder you want is approaching TDC. Remove exhaust side plug and insert about 2 feet of nylon rope into cylinder. Turn engine by hand to compress the rope up into the head against the valves... don't force, do not use the starter. Remove keepers, lash pads, springs and washers and remove seals and replace. When done turn motor backwards to loosen and remove rope and go on to the next one. Tie a knot in the rope end to prevent it slipping into cylinder. This is way easier and needs no equipment like using the compressed air method.
so, i dont need the spring compressor for this method?
No you still need a spring compressor, but you will not have to replace the head gasket or use an air compressor and fittings. You will need to pick up a spring compressor like this.

The legs will hold the bottom of the spring and the center is pushed down with the screw in knob. Theyre pretty cheap ($20 - $30) Then just follow what Mike said above and You'll be fine.

it wasnt so hard to begin with, i guess i just over thought it.
now that im done, i'll give it a week or two to see if im still leaking oil internally.
thanks !!!
Mike, if the cylinder is at the top, how can you get the rope into the cylinder.  I need to do this and it seems like the piston should be down so you can fill the cylinder.  What am I thinking wrong?
okay, so i replaced the valve seals, guess what....
IM STILL GETTING OIL CONSUMPTION. also noticed, i reved up on second and shifted to third, smoke (lots of it) came shoooting out of my exhaust. FYI- i have changed the head gasket before when i had coolant dissapearing on me but it doesnt do that no more. but anyway, i have some kind of internal oil consumption somewhere. could it be the piston rings? is it hard to replace the piston rings? what should be my next step to this? no external oil leaks by the way.
Probably rings then. The head will have to come off and the cylinders measured for wear. If too worn the block will have to come out and be bored to the next oversize and matching oversize pistons and rings installed. If little wear the cylinders can be roughed up with a hone and new rings installed on the old pistons. You will need to have the oil pan off so you can unbolt the rod caps to get the pistons out. This can be done in the truck or out.

Before all this, have a compression test done or borrow a tester, it's easy to do. If all cylinders are low the motor is getting tired.
hey mike, im going to remove my engine to fix the problem, but i have one last question...
i tested last night at the freeway and when i punched it (floored). smoke only bursts out when i punch it (secondaries open) on first thru third gear, but 4th and 5th gear no smoke. so pretty much, only when my secondaries open up is when i get the smoking issue. am i still pointing towards the piston rings? or does my test point to somehing else?
thanks a whole lot mike
As Mike suggested......before you yank the engine....I would confirm that the engine is 'compromised'......IE....compression test.
Mike is MIA...............Holidays I guess.......?
Not of consequence.....but I had some smoke belching on acceleration.
Choke wasn't fully opened......Food for future thought.
Good call Doug. Just got back from Ontariario.

If the smoke is blue it's likely oil burning. Black(ish) smoke could be over rich carb problem. Does it use a lot of oil???
it uses oil and not coolant, but why is my smoke white? does not have a sweet smell, smells like exhaust to me but i still cant figure out why? i checked the choke and it was good.
What Causes White Smoke From Exhaust?
By Jeffrey Eldri
When white smoke is spewing from your exhaust, it is usually an indication that something is burning. The usual culprit is a burning fluid from the vehicle, but other causes are possible. The backyard mechanic can diagnose the problem by observing and smelling the smoke. Locating where it is coming from and accessing how much is billowing out can pin down the problem.
Oil, transmission fluid or anti-freeze are the three kinds of fluid most likely to be the cause of white smoke coming from your exhaust. Ruptured seals, leaky bolts or blown gaskets can expose oil to hot spots, making it burn. Pin holes or loose lines can cause antifreeze to spray on the engine. If it's transmission fluid, it could be caused by the fluid being sucked into the engine and burning.
Oil burning can be as minor as a small leak, or a major engine failure. When antifreeze is burning, your engine is being deprived of cooling ability, causing it to seize. When transmission fluid is burning, the parts inside the transmission are not being properly lubricated, which can cause malfunction and wear of internal parts.
How much smoke is coming out is an indication of the problem. The smell is another clue. Sometimes the smoke will start white and turn bluish or black. This is another consideration in making a diagnosis. Oil of any automotive type burns bluish and too much fuel will make a black smoke. Not enough fuel burns gray, so a careful observation of the smoke can help find the problem.
Many times steam can be confused with smoke. Smelling again will aid in correct identification. Look for low coolant level and a peanut butter looking substance on the oil cap. This is an indication of steam and exhaust gasses in the coolant, which could be a blown head gasket.
Keep your fluid levels at the proper level. Change them at the recommended intervals and this will reduce leaks and maintenance issues. Use the proper types of fluids, as well. The wrong transmission fluid can cause your gears to stick and wear down. Wrong oil can reduce lubrication on the engine and cause internal damage. Improper mixture or wrong type of antifreeze can cause overheating. Consult your owner's manual or a professional for your vehicle's specifics.


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