Little Trucks, Big World

So.....all of a sudden my Z24 with 32/36 DGEV seems to be dieseling a
bit....power of suggestion I guess . It seems a few people have been
talking about this lately. Who would of thunk
Anywho..... I can 'deal' (idle, timing, temp) with the
dieseling....but I though I would buy the Weber anti dieseling solenoid
(45 bucks delivered) and hook it up (also) to my stock 720 wiring. The
solenoid is placed in the primary circuit on both Weber and Hitachi
carbs.....correct? So......in theory the Weber solenoid will have power
shut off when the vacuum switches and boost control valve sense a
change in engine vacuum on deceleration....thus saving fuel. Most people
don't run it through the 720 IC circuit because of the removal of the
stock air cleaner........and ....well....other than that I don't know
I already converted my stock air cleaner to fit the Weber......now I
just have to add a fitting (in pic) inside the base of the cleaner, the
OE was cut out on the conversion. Then... just reconnect the 2 vacuum
hoses to the IM&air cleaner and remount the switches etc.

Point is.....If I can't save fuel with the solenoid...?.....it's not gonna be installed

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It's best use would be to prevent run on. The gas saved would be the equivalent of that normally wasted during highway cruise deceleration. Every bit helps I guess. I wonder...
Ya....just thinking I might be wasting my money.
I can drop the idle a little more to prevent dieseling.
I do have a lot of deceleration ....off road and all......down the hills.
Hmmmmmm....yes.... many querys.....:)
Well.....45 bucks....equals.....about 40 liters....give or take.
How many years and or kilometers will it take to break even....?
Was also thinking that the head might be a little cleaner in the long run....with the solenoid?
i have run several 32/36 webers and never ran the solenoid... never had issues once..... i honestly believe if a car is tuned right and maintained you dont need junk add-ons like that... just a band-aid.
Yes....the truck is running rather excellent with the Weber. Idle was a little high....so it dieseled a few times. Figured if I could save a few bucks on gas, with the solenoid.....I'd get 1.
But......probably take too many moons to recoup the '.money'.
Should have a closer look at the linkage.....seems to be climbing back up to 1000rpm at random.
I fix.
you got leaks man!
Way no.... man.
I can physically pull the linkage back by hand to drop the idle.
It's running too good to have any leaks....:)
so how would you recommend to stop the diesling?? i got a weber 34 and no fuel cutoff and i need help... like how many turns out do i back of the air fuel screw? and wat should the idle be set at?
Messing with the idle or mixture screw so it will (or may) shut off without run on will likely cause idle problems the rest of the time.

Back in '70 I purchased a new Dart 340 and it would run on from the 10.5 compression. Here's what I did and it worked very well.

When you stop hold the brake on and just get in the habit of lifting the clutch slightly to lightly to engage it (don't lift too fast just a light load) as you turn the ignition off. The added load will kill it instantly. Hold the brake firmly and don't let off till the motor is fully stopped or it will jump. You likely have the clutch in as you pull in to stop anyway so it doesn't take anything extra to do just doing it in the right order. 2-3 tries and you'll be doing it smooth as butter... no one will even notice..... If you have an auto just shut of in reverse or drive. The load will kill the motor just like the clutch, then place in park.
Not sure about the 34.......but if you attach a vacuum gauge to the IM you can pretty much dial the Weber right in. Try to obtain the highest reading, should be around 18-20 lb. Start with 1.5 turns CCW and go from there.
Tune the Weber with the idle at 900, then drop it 6ish after.
wait what should be turned 1.5 turns ccw?
The idle mix screw


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