What is your profession? (not required, just if you want to share your knowledge)
CNC Operator/ Programmer
My work career came to an abrupt halt a few weeks ago when I was forced to take a leave of absence after my dad had an emergency medical problem. Since he lives some 400 miles away, (i'm in PA he's in VA) i ad to take time off work so I could get down there enough to help him out. In the meantime I'm a stay-at-home-dad to a busy 2 year old girl. It's hard work!!
I work in Manufacturing Engineering. I have a baby girl and a beautiful wife.
I am a A2 Sheet Metal Worker, Senior Fabricator, Head CNC Punch Operator, Head of CNC Programming.
I'm open for questions and to help you out.
How many 720's or other Nissan trucks do you own? What years and types?
Hey Adam, Doug Thorley makes a good header for our trucks. I actually have on for sale for $300 but that is because its ceramic coated. I need to build a bigger header for full race application that is why I mentioned before about the header flange. I am not sure what Grafoil is but give me some time to read-up on it and I'll let you know. I appreciate the offer. Got to run. -greg
Well, like i said if you are getting spark at the cap and none at the plugs then either the wires are bad or the plugs are fouled. Buy some new plugs like I mentioned 2 messages ago and some new wires; both are tune-up items anyway. Then try firing-up. Those wires and plugs are probably crazy only anyway. Good luck Man, let me know what happen. -greg
Hey Adam, if you are absolutely positive that you are getting spark at the cap but are not getting spark at the plugs then logically the wires are the problem. I highly doubt that the coils are the problem because the coils sends the power to the rotor and the rotor distributes it. First, this is something a lot of people over look, make sure when you are checking the plugs for spark that metal of the plug is touching a mental ground. Most people just plug it into the wire and let it sit on the valve cover and crank over the truck to check spark. Be sure the metal electrode of the plug is touching a piece of metal or the spark won't arc.
If you are able to get a spark write back to me. There is a very common problem with 720s that deals with the fuel pump relay that has symptoms like you are describing. But lets eliminate the spark problem first and then move on.
Hey Adam, you are on the right track by first tuning-up your truck to bring it back up to par. Get some new spark plugs for sure. I like NGKs and Denso brands and if you can afford the NGK Iridiums I like those! Do a fresh set of spark plug wires and also do a oil change with some good oil (if you are not burning oil, since you said "things are falling apart" i don't know if that is included) I recommend Royal Purple or Mobil 1 10w30. One thing I have also found to make a difference is to adjust/check the valve lash back to factory spec. Check your service manual. You might also want to work on your carburetion. Buy a couple bottles of carb cleaner and clean the hell out of inside and outside of the carb. You could also do a little upgrade with a Weber 32/36, or Weber 38 they can be found all over the net for pretty cheap; don't forget the adapter. Let know how things go Man, :) if you lived in Vegas i'd come over and give a hand.
You might want to start thinking of maybe a fresh head job and head gasket replacement. There are all kinds of minor parts that are worn and leaking slowly, and those add up. The good thing is that all the upgrades I mentioned above will only help after you do the head stuff. Let me know what is going on and I can walk you through stuff before you talk to a machinist.
I will write you later about some question and recommendations I need from you concerning learning CAD and maybe asking you to make a header flange for me. I have to run now. Good luck Man -greg