Little Trucks, Big World

I bought a 32/36 Weber kit for my 1984 4x4 Z-24, and I am in the middle of installing it, but I have a continuing issue.
I honestly don't know where the float bowl ventilation hose is...I have pulled all theses hoses off and taken off the AB valve and the metal line that went under the intake manifold and came up in between the manifold and the valve cover with a rubber line on the end of it.

I have looked at tons of pictures on line in here and by google searching but to no avail, nothing at AutoZone.com either and nothing in my Haynes manual.

I was supposed to plug the line when I was removing everything and now I am supposed to hook it back up, but I don't even know what the heck it is or what it looks like~!!

I could really use some up close shots showing where the lines we actually need are coming from and going too as the instructions included are not the best.

I did tag the vacuum lines that they recommended as well as the fuel inlet and return, but I just could not find any pictures that showed me which line exactly was the float bowl breather hose, in fact the Haynes manual doesn't show much of anything really because they made a general disclaimer that there are too many different styles to aptly show a teardown of each unit.

Please help!!

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The... "metal line that went under the intake manifold and came up in between the manifold and the valve cover with a rubber line on the end of it." is the part of the PCV system and should be left alone. If you still have the parts, put it back. The PCV system is totally benign in operation, has absolutely NO effect on running performance and actually prevents water and combustion vapors from collecting and condensing inside the engine where it contaminates the oil.

Can you post a picture of the top of your charcoal canister (near the two coils) and the top of carb. Also you have a Z24, but what year is it?
In my pics. you can see that the PCV system is still intact and untouched. The lines I took out were the metal fuel lines going to the old carb. and they were not going to be used anymore so I removed them, they were only held on by one bracket attached with one bolt to the intake.
I switched the fuel inlet on the Weber to the left side so I could take my fuel line directly up from the regulator and I am in the process of getting plugs to fill the hole where the thermal valve was at since it won't be used any longer, same for the vacuum port down and left of the AB valve opening.
I want a nice clean look without all of the rubber plugs with screws except where necessary.

There is now a brass 1/4" fitting where the Anti backfire valve used to be located that acts as the purge to the charcoal canister.
Sounds good.....your fuel return line is still functional?
Read & understand all steps of these instructions before beginning this installation.
Kit is for off-road use, not for use on the highways, or in California.
Nissan Pick-up with Z-24 engine
Using REDLINE Weber 32/36 DGEV
These instructions are intended as a general guide for installation.
Certain steps may vary slightly for different vehicles.
Jetting Specifications
Jetting specifications of carburetors supplied in kits may vary slightly,
and will always be correct for the intended application.
Tools Needed
Combination, box or open-end wrenches
Socket set
Screwdrivers (regular and Phillips)
6mm allen wrench
Gasket Scraper, Knife
Wiping rags, Cleaning solvent
Gasket sealer
Parts Supplied with Installation Kit
Weber 32/36 DGEV
Carburetor adapter
Linkage kit
Chrome air filter
All engine tune-up specifications for the REDLINE Weber Carburetor remains the same as those specified by the factory for the original unit. A suitable qualified dealer or independent garage, using infrared gas analyzing equipment, should carry out emission tune-up.

NOTE: Late model vehicles fitted with Emission Control Systems have many vacuum lines and electrical connections in their fuel systems. It is essential when dismantling, that disconnected lines be identified with a number tag or label system. Establish function of any device reconnected or disconnected.


It is recommended to obtain a new fuel filter and install it when installing this kit.
Many late model vehicles use a high-pressure fuel system. The REDLINE / WEBER only requires 3.5 lbs Maximum. For aggressive driving or off road use, we recommend a fuel pressure regulator adjusted to 2 to 2.5 lbs. for more stable fuel and float control.
Universal Disassembly, Disconnect battery.
Remove the gas cap.
Remove factory air filter assembly and all attaching hardware and hoses. Use a tag and numbering system to identify hoses for reinstallation.
Remove factory vacuum lines from carburetor Use a tag and number system to identify hoses for reinstallation.
If emission control equipment is not to be used, disconnect and remove it completely, leaving vacuum lines intact unless noted otherwise. (We will require that the charcoal canister portion of the fuel evaporative emissions system remains intact in order to properly vent the fuel tank.)
Disconnect the throttle cable and remove the cable bracket from the manifold.
Remove the carburetor hold down nut and lift the carburetor off the intake manild. Insert shop towel into manifold opening before cleaning carburetor mounting surface. Clean carburetor mounting surface manifold.
Remove the carburetor mounting studs from the intake manifold using the double nut method, by installing 2 nuts half way down the stud lock them together to remove turn lower nut to install use upper nut.
Remove the large anti-backfire valve from the intake manifold.
Remove the vacuum control valve, both vacuum switches and the vacuum, and the hoses for these components.
Disconnect and remove the vacuum hoses from the EGR valve, BTP valve and the thermal vacuum valve.
Bench assembly
Install the new REDLINE lever on the carburetor.

CAUTION: Do not over tighten throttle shaft nut.

Proper tightness can be achieved by installing nut just slightly more than finger-tight (finger tight then one more flat of the nut) and bend lock tab. After tightening, open choke and check for full throttle operation from idle stop to wide-open throttle. If any sticking or binding occurs, loosen nut and re-tighten with reduced torque. If excessive torque has been applied, re-centralization of the throttle plate may be necessary. This may require loosening nut and rapping on the end of the shaft with a small plastic mallet or a screwdriver handle (We are not driving nails here firm, but not abusive).
Universal Reassembly
Install the supplied ¼” fitting into the opening left by the removal of the anti-backfire valve. Connect the canister purge hose to this fitting.
Install the carburetor sandwich adapter as described below.
Install the two long studs into the manifold in the threaded holes closest the fender well, and tighten securely.
Install the two short studs in the remaining holes and secure.
Set the carburetor-mounting gasket and adapter over the studs and secure in place with Allen bolts.
With linkage toward the rear of the vehicle, install the carburetor with the gasket.
Slide the supplied return spring over the stud closest the firewall and the valve cover so that the bracket points straight back and up.
Loosely install the supplied retaining nuts.
Check for proper linkage operation, and spring retainer orientation, correct if necessary
When all operations are ensured correctly, tighten the nuts to 12ft lbs.
Install the supplied cable bracket in the same position as the original unit using the original hardware.
Reconnect the stock throttle cable to the new bracket and the throttle lever of the Weber carburetor. Adjust to factory specs.
Install the supplied return spring between the lever and the bracket so that the open end of the hooks faces the valve cover.
Cycle the linkage by hand to check for sticking or binding. Remember over tightening causes binding. Correct any linkage problems now before proceeding. NOTE: the automatic choke will be set in the cold start position and unless the choke plate is held open the throttle will not return to the fully closed position.
Referring to figure 2 make the following connections to the Weber carburetor. With the supplied hose.
Distributor advance to the Dist advance port.
Canister purge hose to the EGR port.
Float bowl vent hose from the carbon canister to the float bowl vent fitting.
Connect new fuel line, using hose and clamps supplied. We also suggest that a fuel filter be used in all applications.
Using the supplied vacuum caps cap any fittings left exposed on the intake manifold, also cal the exposed fittings of disconnected components.
Connect the male push-on connector of the supplied wiring harness to the wire originally connected to the red wire of the stock idle cut-off unit (anti-dieseling solenoid). Slide the supplied shrink tubing over the female spade connectors of the new harness and connect the connectors to the terminal of the electric choke element of the carburetor. Slide the shrink tubing over the connections and then using a non-flammable heat source heat the shrink tubing over the connections until a good seal is made.
Check for vacuum leaks around the carburetor-mounting base and correct as necessary. Use spray can of carburetor cleaner with hose attachment to isolate a leak, by spraying around carburetor mounting base. If any of the spray is entering the induction system, the idle speed will change. Note: Some leakage at the throttle shaft is expected.
If engine has poor idle, or will not idle at all, shut engine off and re-set idle by setting the Idle Speed Screw to 1 ½ turns in maximum after contact with the throttle lever. The Mixture Screw after lightly seating it comes out 2 turns. See tuning procedure page 5 & 6.
To install air filter assembly remove the four studs in the carburetor flange. Install the gasket and use the appropriate bolts or nuts (supplied with air filter) to secure to the carburetor. Connect new valve cover vent line using hose and clamps.
Check for adequate hood clearance before closing hood !!
Jim Hilton
Sales, Technical

Overseas Auto
Overseas Distributing
Hilton Overseas Auto Inc.

Email jim@overseas-auto.com
Website http://www.overseas-auto.com
Always on MSN Messenger z5551212@hotmail.com
Telephone - 1 604 879 6288
Fax - 1 604 879 1791
Toll Free - 1 800 665 5031
Thanks for the mucho better instructions...mine consisted of two pages and they just seemed to touch on the basics rather than give you detailed help, which is ok I guess if you have prior experience but unfortunately I am a novice when it comes to carbs. but like anything else, I learn as I go.

No problemo.......when I installed mine....I knew nothing. And that wasn't too long ago.........lol. Always a learning curve. This is a pic of when I started.....rats nest. Looked much better after I removed all the emissions.....and or gained a little more knowledge. You do have a fuel pressure regulator?
Thanks Sealik, no I don't have a regulator just yet, I honestly could have sworn that my new pump I installed a while back only pumped up to 3.5, but I am going to be checking on that..for now the darn clamp that holds it completely blocks the info. label so I have to unbolt it to get to it but it's not the highest priority right now as I want to just get the basics hooked up...like that darn float bowl vent hose and where it connects to.
Most stock pumps are around 3.5. You have to drop it to about 2.5....thus the regulator. I never hooked up the float bowl vent hose....should of could of. It gets hooked up to the cannister as Mike suggested......if you are not utilizing the cannister...plug the fitting at the carb. http://books.google.ca/books?id=TXE-L2QhoAwC&pg=PA142&lpg=P...
Also.....when I initially installed my Weber, I had no regulator. Had some issues so I plumbed one in....not sure if the improvement was from this application or other modifications I made. Point is.....I think it ran fine without....weather the regulator helped or not.....not knowing. But.....I still installed one anyways, to be sure.
A new carb may tolerate the higher pressure better than an older or home re-built. Under 3 lb is about right.
Ok, so I'm getting pretty far along on this and as usual one thing leads to another, but I needed to remove the exhaust manifold to properly drill out, tap, and plug the holes where the tubes came from the manifold up to the old air cleaner assembly since I can't get a plug the right size anywhere.

What I am wondering is if I need the tube that comes into the "back" of the exhaust manifold from the EGR valve on the intake manifold since all of the vacuum lines are now capped on it.

Can I remove this line and plug that hole as well while I have it out and just plug the hole at the EGR valve as well??

Or is this part actually needed for something and should stay attached?


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